All about my hair
A ridiculously in-depth guide to curls
To say that I have been on a journey with my hair from the time I was a teenager would be an understatement. I was 13-years-old when the movie Thirteen came out, and I so vividly remember coveting Nikki Reed’s hair — long, one-layer, and pin-straight. I’d listen to “Konstantine” by Something Corporate on repeat, and when Andrew McMahon talked about wanting to touch her long…blonde…hair I felt it deep in my soul. I was an awkward teen with no idea how to deal with my hair, which didn’t seem curly, but was definitely huge and frizzy. So, like many kids in the Myspace era, I flat ironed the absolute fuck out of it.
But now I am in the full flush of my curl era. (Brian May haircut and all.) I absolutely love my curls, and feel that finally, in my 34th year, I have discovered a routine and a style that fits me perfectly. It’s a little bit Stevie Nicks with a dash of Cher. And, believe it or not, maintaining my curls is so much easier than trying to style them out of existence.
My coming around to my coils has been a more recent evolution — one that really kicked up last year when I realized that, with just a little bit of product and a tiny bit of effort, my hair would very easily spring into position. A lot of this discovery has been trial and error, in that I’ve just been looking for other people with hair that looks similar to mine and seeing what they do to style it. But it’s also been a ton of fun figuring out what, exactly, my hair wants — and I think I’ve finally cracked the code. So in the spirit of anti-gatekeeping, here is a ridiculously involved, overly-detailed breakdown of my entire hair routine.
But first, a note on haircuts:
Hands-down, the most important thing I did for my curls was find a hairstylist who understood what they needed to look their best. I’ve been going to see Erickson at Bumble and bumble in Manhattan for years. He’s always told me that my hair is curly, but has encouraged me to take to my current style in baby steps. You can follow the evolution of my hair inspo on my Pinterest board — I typically add to it in the weeks leading up to a haircut to get the general vibe right.
This most recent cut was one I’d been sitting on for a while. (I had been growing my hair out for the wedding.) Erickson’s cuts had been leading me up to this shape and style for a while, so that when it came time to do this most recent chop, he really only had to adjust the layers on the top of my head, give me bangs, take the length up ever-so slightly, and blend it all together.
Once you find the stylist you like, be honest with them about your hair routine. Up until I started playing with my curl texture, I was straight wash-and-go, and Erickson tailored my cut to that level of upkeep. My current cut and style takes more effort, which I’ve found I’ve enjoyed, but is not for people who want a low-maintenance look. Erickson has always been upfront with me about the amount of upkeep needed. A good stylist wants to give you a haircut that not only looks good but that works for you, so make sure you listen to them when they tell you what kind of styling to expect!
The products I currently use:
“Hair products” for curly girls go far beyond what you actually put on your hair. Keeping my curls looking their best requires a battery of tools and tricks — only three of which are actual creams and serums that I apply to the curls itself. Here is everything I use for my full hair routine — touch-up days included. (I’ve also collected all of my recommended hair products here.)
1. Shampoo: I look for shampoos that hydrate my hair and balance my scalp. (Good hair starts with a healthy scalp!!) I’ve been loving Harklinikken Balancing Shampoo on most wash days, but also use their Fortifying Shampoo about once or twice a month. It helps remove buildup, which is great when my scalp needs some TLC.
2. Conditioner: I always skip normal conditioners and look for a super rich, hydrating mask. Shea Moisture makes my favorite at the moment.
3. Wide tooth comb: After my mask is done soaking in, I’ll detangle with a wide tooth comb before rinsing. This is an important step, because once I’m out of the shower, I don’t brush my hair again.
4. Curl Creams: It took a lot of trial and error to find a curl cream that works for me. (I had been erring on the side of lightweight creams which wound up actually being a mistake!) Shea Moisture’s Curl Enhancing Smoothie is rich and hydrating but doesn’t weigh my hair down — a necessity for bounce. I’ll also sometimes use Miss Jessie’s Pillow Soft Curls on top if I’m really trying to battle or frizz. On days three and beyond, if my curls need a refresh, I’ll add in a drop of Pillow Soft or use John Frieda’s Touch Up Cream and scrunch it into my hair
5. Gels: Usually my curl creams give me the hold I want for day-to-day, but if I need a little extra, I’ll layer on Miss Jessie’s Jelly Soft Curls to keep them in place.
6. Oils and serums: I have literally been using John Freida’s Frizz-Ease Serum since I was in middle school. Not only does it keep my hair from fuzzing, but it also protects against heat damage. I’ll also work a little bit into my hair on post-wash days if it’s looking a little frizzy.
7. Old t-shirts for plopping: Plopping is a technique I use to define my curls and remove excess moisture before I diffuse. People will say you need specific microfiber towels or head wraps, but I just use old cotton t-shirts. (Just make sure they’re oversized.) Here’s how to tie it.
8. Diffuser: A diffuser attachment on your blowdryer evenly distributes the flow of air, which has the benefit of protecting from heat. It’s particularly good for curls because it adds volume — especially when you flip your hair upside-down to dry. I use a Dyson with the diffuser attachment, but there is no need to go expensive here.
9. Mini curling iron: Listen, even with a lot of coaxing, certain strands may need a little help. I touch-up with a 1/2 inch curling iron from T3.
10. Silk pillowcases and satin scrunchies: To preserve my curls, I sleep on a silk pillow case with my hair tied on my head with a satin scrunchie. This is to prevent friction — cotton can rough up the hair cuticle, leading to frizz. Crown Affair makes my favorite satin scrunchies of all time. (I’m usually wearing one on my wrist!) And while Slip makes the gold standard, they can be on the pricier side. These pillowcases on Amazon, though, are only $24, so that’s what I use!
11. A bonnet: Instead of packing a satin pillow case on every trip I take, when I’m traveling, I wear a silk bonnet to bed. There are plenty of options out there, but I love ones that tie, because they stay on my head better.
12. Spray bottle with water: Of all of the products I just listed, this is the one I use the most. I mist my hair every morning (except wash days) to redirect and rehydrate my curls and every evening before applying my curl cream to bed. Any spray bottle will do.
13. Claw clips and silk scarves: The biggest change for me is that, aside from silk scrunchies to sleep in, I don’t tie up my hair anymore. I don’t like how elastics dent my curls. So I turn to silk scarves to keep my hair off my neck when I want to wear it down and claw clips when I just need to pile my curls on top of my head and be done with it.
My full hair routine:
So now that we’ve gotten all the throat clearing out of the way, here is how I style my hair. I’ve included my routine for wash days, as well as what I do at night and in the morning on non-wash days to keep my curls looking fresh.
Wash Days
(You can see a video of my doing my wash day routine here.)
In the shower, I’ll shampoo twice, making sure to rinse really well between.
Next, I’ll apply my hair mask starting at the ends of my hair and working it up. Controversial, but I do apply the mask to the top of my hair, just making sure to use a light touch and avoid my direct hair line. Then, I’ll twist my hair up with a claw clip and let it sit while I do everything else I need in the shower.
After about 10 minutes, I’ll take my hair down from the clip and use my wide-tooth comb to brush it out before rinsing. I start at the ends of my hair and work my way up, making sure everything is detangled before I rinse my hair.
Once rinsed, I’ll get out of the shower and give my hair just a little squeeze to get some of the water out. I still want my hair on the wetter side, though, so I don’t touch a towel to it. (My bathroom floors are always wet post-shower.) (Sorry, Ben.)
I’ll make my way over to my bed with my oversized tee, curl creams, gel, and frizz serum. After laying the shirt out on the bed, I’ll flip my hair over it and apply my curl cream. I work in sections, applying a nickel-sized dollop to each, scrunching the cream into my hair as it’s flipped over. (It should make a squelching sound.)
I’ll repeat the same scrunching technique with my gel, followed by the frizz serum. Then, I’ll plop my hair, tying it up in the t-shirt to dry and shape my curls for at least 20 minutes.
Next, I’ll let down my hair and diffuse it (medium speed and low heat) with my head flipped upside down. I again work in sections, making sure to blast my hair with the cool shot every once in a while to avoid frizz. Once my hair is 50% dry, I flip my head right-side-up and continue drying. Once 80% dry, I turn the heat off, add a little frizz serum if I need it, and let my hair continue air-drying the rest of the way.
Once fully dry, I flip my head over, give it a shake and a fluff, and go about my day.
Evening
Before bed, I’ll give my hair a little mist with my spray bottle and shake it out.
Next, I’ll take a dime-sized smear of curl cream, emulsify it in my hands, and scrunch it into my hair. If I feel I need it, I’ll repeat with the littlest drop of frizz serum.
I’ll pile my hair on top of my head in a pineapple, shake out my bangs, and sleep on silk pillowcase. If I’m traveling, I’ll put all of my hair (including my bangs) into my bonnet, tie it loosely, and go to sleep.
Morning
On the mornings I’m not washing, I’ll take my hair down and assess what we’re working with. Usually my bangs need a little love, but the back of my hair sometimes needs a little oomph as well.
I’ll mist down the sections that I’d like to revive or redirect and add a little bit of curl cream and frizz serum to those sections.
I’ll then diffuse those sections on medium speed, low heat until 80% dry.
If some areas of curls need it, I’ll fluff them up with a wide-tooth comb. And if I’m super desperate, I’ll reach for my T3 to add some more curl definition.
Things to note:
My curl pattern is 3A. My hair is highly porous, which means that it absorbs product really well but can dry out very easily, too.
My current haircut is a long shag with bangs.
Because of my bangs, I go to see Erickson every 2-3 months. (Again, this isn’t a haircut for low-maintenance people!!)
Most importantly, this routine is what works for me. Everyone is different. It took a lot of research, trial, and error to get to the place where I am now — and there’s a good chance my routine may change again! That’s a big reason why I started embracing my curly texture — I really love the discovery. It may take you some time to find what works for you. My advice is to trust the process and have fun!
Okay…I think that’s it! But if you still have any questions, sound off in the comments below. I’ll be answering!