"Thanks, it's vintage."
A love letter to clothing from the past, plus tips for second-hand shopping
I’ve been at my job for long enough that my coworkers have started to parrot things I say back to me. Just the other day, as I was fixing myself a coffee in the kitchen, a coworker came up to me and complimented my skirt — a color-blocked maxi with a bit of a ruffle. “Thanks,” I said. And before I could get the next few words out of my mouth, she finished my sentence — “Let me guess, it’s vintage?”
Without really realizing it, over the past couple of years, my wardrobe has rapidly shifted from contemporary clothing to pieces that were created before the new millennium. Not *everything* I wear is vintage — just yesterday I picked up a beautiful pair of linen pants with a swingy, boxy tank from Gap. But at this point, I’d say at least 80% of my wardrobe is of the vintage variety.
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I’ve written about this before, but for years I felt really lost in my style. As a 20-something editor living in New York, I erred on the safe side of dressing for a while, wearing mostly black, denim, and whatever trendy sneaker or bootie everyone else was wearing at the time. I was also, if we’re being honest, dressing for the male gaze. I was single, and going out on multiple dates a week, and I saw my wardrobe less as an expression of self and more as another avenue by which I might attract a potential mate. (Ironically enough, the man I’m marrying in just two short weeks would always choose my colorful caftans over anything else in my closet if I gave him say in what I wore every day.)
People talk a lot about how your 30s are an incredibly freeing time. I remember being in my late 20s, feeling absolutely railroaded by life, certain that things would never get better, panicking about turning 30. But my friends who had already hit the milestone would assure me that thing would only continue to improve once I reached my next decade. They were right, of course. Entering my 30s felt like a huge exhale in so many ways — especially when I realized that caring what other people thought didn’t actually serve me in any meaningful way. But the place where I saw this settling in most acutely was in my wardrobe, especially since this is around the time that my vintage obsession kicked into high gear.
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I love the color of vintage clothing, and the silhouettes, and the funky embellishments, and the feeling of worn-in fabric. I love making friends with my favorite vintage sellers. I love the thrill of the hunt — for me, there is nothing better than spending an afternoon digging through rack after rack of clothing, or waiting in line for an estate sale to see what kind of treasures are inside. I love that every piece has a story behind how and where I found it.
But mostly, I love the creativity that comes from wearing vintage clothing. Since these pieces tend to be one-of-a-kind, it becomes a fun challenge to match them with other one-of-a-kind pieces. Honestly, I used to think I didn’t have any hobbies, but now I realize I have one — shopping for vintage, then coming home, playing dress-up, and cataloguing the different looks for future wear.
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If you’re new to vintage shopping, it can absolutely feel overwhelming. But I have a few tips for those of you who are interested in taking the plunge into the past:
Shop in-person as much as possible, especially in the beginning. Vintage shopping is a very tactile experience. Fabric, like skin, changes as it ages — especially if it isn’t well-cared-for. Older pieces of clothing also hang differently than more modern pieces. So I always like to tell people to shop in-person first. My favorite brick-and-mortar stores around NYC are Amarcord Vintage, Sisters Vintage, and Another Man’s Treasure. But I also like to shop A Current Affair, the Manhattan Vintage Show, Threadbare, and the DUMBO Flea when they happen, because they have dozens of sellers all in one place.
Get to know your favorite vintage sellers. Another reason why I like to shop in-person is because I like to meet the people who run my favorite vintage shops. I’ve been buying from some of them for close to a decade, and consider some of them friends. These relationships are not only enriching but they also are helpful when you’re trying to source specific pieces. When you get to know your sellers, you also get a handle for the types of pieces they typically stock, so you’ll be able to identify your favorites and get a better sense of the eras you like to shop.
Scope out treasures when you travel. One of the first things I do whenever I book a trip somewhere is to scope out the vintage and thrift stores in the area. It’s incredible how much clothing changes from area to area, and you can find things in other states or countries that you’d never be able to source close-to-home. Austin is great for band tees and good denim, Los Angeles has the market cornered on old costumes and hippie dresses, and Paris is ideal for vintage coats and jackets. (In fact, I got a Burberry trench from a stand along the Seine that was one of the first vintage purchases I ever made.)
Know thy measurements. Look, you can’t *always* shop in-person, especially if you don’t live near a place chock-full of vintage markets and shops. Plus, Etsy and eBay are some of the better spots to find treasures — but it’s important to know your measurements. Buy a sewing tape measure, grab a friend, and get to taking your measurements. (Here’s a handy guide on how to do it.) Most vintage sellers will list measurements lying flat, so remember to double them to get an accurate size!
Find a good tailor. Vintage clothing can sometimes need a little zhuzhing to get it just right — especially if it’s been altered in its past life. I wish I had the talent to mend my own clothing, but beyond reinforcing a button, I’m hopeless. But I’ve found a great tailor near me who knows how to handle vintage clothing, and I’ll often take pieces to her if I need an elastic replaced or a hem brought up. I never like to buy something that needs *major* surgery, like a new lining in a coat, but I’ll often purchase things that need slight adjustments and then have the tailor handle those. It’s another great way to ensure the piece feels made for you, which makes them feel all the more special.
But most importantly, have fun! The beauty of vintage clothing is in the creativity, and I truly believe it’s such an enjoyable way to tap into your own style. So take a trip back in time with your wardrobe. You’ll never regret it.
That rainbow kaftan and the purple bag are stinking cute. It's always a joy to happen across people dressed so uniquely while I'm wandering the city. Gives me hope. "Ah, they tried to turn us into clones, but we're revolting," I think. Thanks for sharing the tips!